Emporio Armani menswear Spring Summer 2015 collection at Milan Men SS15 Fashion Week.
Giorgio Armani took on Fall/Winter 2015 on Tuesday with a typically self-assured look at modern masculinity, mixing casual and conservative dress codes to typically slick effect.
From the first look featuring a three-button suit in toweling worn with fur accessories, this collection was a statement of intent. This is what the 80-year-old designer wants his modern man to look like.
For Fall/Winter 2015 it was all about the soft and hard edges of manhood, à la Hemingway, with Armani's contemporary aesthetes in short-cut jackets paired with high-waisted 1930s inspired pants.
Apart from a final flurry of tailoring, the show mixed off and on-duty looks, from Nordic knits in vicuna, herringbone tweed, and checks both windowpane and plaid, to zip-up shirting and shearling jackets. The 'Milanese' color palette of shades of gray evolved into blacks, browns and blues, with the odd hint of bordeaux and olive green.
Despite all the emphasis on the classically masculine and functional, the crocodile blouson and the copious number of fur pieces were a statement of intent for the collection's luxury credentials. They were joined by a military touch from the double-breasted casual jackets and the overcoats with plenty of outer pockets.
More exuberant pieces included the patchwork sweaters, including some with fleece panels and shawl collar jackets, with models carrying fur-sided holdalls, and wearing sensible boots and double monk strap derbies.
Giorgio Armani has expressed how wants the youth of today to smarten up, even when they would like to dress down, with the Italian maestro providing just enough everyday wearability and formal detailing for his clientele's new Autumn/Winter 2015 wardrobe…
"These clothes are less casual, less easygoing. They're layered, yes, but not thrown on," the designer said of his AW15 Emporio Armani collection, which was partly inspired by the sophisticated manner of a man in uniform.
Jackets with small lapels and cardigans with multiple zips headlined this unique collection, which came in unstructured jersey or Harris Tweed, fitting models like a tight T-shirt. While fez-style hats were worn tilted as a chic accessory, as well as round futuristic sunglasses, adding an oriental and other-worldly vibe to the tailored collection.
There were ribbed jackets with shawl collars and delicate peacoats, with trousers seen in an array of comfortable fabrics, coming in sportswear silhouettes and high-waisted styles worn with leather belts (a style you could definitely see Mr. Armani himself sporting).
Adding some cultural influences to the collection – adorned in lots of navy, black, caramel and grey – Armani also used flashes of gold and silver as artsy brush strokes on knit jackets that were inspired by Japanese calligraphy.
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